leaking basement where foundation meets first floorWinter in Toronto is cold and wet.  The thawing periods in between the freezing weather is where many basement starts to show signs of leaks. AS accumulated snow and ice start to melt, it makes it’s way into the earth, leading to basement leaks. Of course,  It can come from a number of areas, including sources inside your home.  Each problem has it’s own potential solution,

Almost every basement leaks from time to time, especially if it’s never been properly waterproofed from the exterior. It’s a natural phenomenon because building materials are porous unless treated properly, and structural cracks develop as the ground settles over time. This leaves important clues for anybody who knows what they are about. You just need to think logically about what causes dampness, and which of the following apply to you:

1- If your basement ceiling is moist then the water is likely coming from a drain or water pipe above, that could have sprung a leak. Alternatively, your problem could be the consequence of warmer air condensing on cooler pipes and dripping down. These are simple problems the average home handyman can probably fix themselves.

2- Surface water is a common cause of signs of damp on upper basement walls. It’s often caused by rain and flooding. If you allow water to pool on the surface, then the earth will absorb it because that’s what soil does. Where else do you think tree roots get their water from? It’s easy to figure out you need to lead storm water away from the walls of your house, especially near your basement location.

 

If the surface slopes towards your home then you need to re-grade it to a fall of one inch to one foot away from it. It will help greatly if you pave the immediate area too. This should deal effectively with damp showing in the upper parts of your basement walls. Don’t forget to clean out your window wells at the same time too.

 

  1. Ground water is usually the driver behind damp on lower basement walls and floors. This is moisture that travels through natural earth strata from elsewhere to your home. If your house is standing on a rise you shouldn’t have it. If it’s in a hollow then it’s inevitably there in winter. This is what causes damp on lower walls, and seepage through the joint between the walls and floor.

This is a tougher nut to crack, especially because problems behind walls and under floors that are hard to get to. If the leakage is radical you might have to excavate from outside and install the drainage systems builders call french drains and weeping tiles. If it’s minor, then a sump pump system might suffice.

It’s simpler when you understand the basics. However many of the cases we’ve dealt with had multiple causes that overlap. The best course of action is to look for the simple solutions and work your way back. If problems persist you’ll most likely want to call in a basement waterproofing company to conduct a full assessment of your water problems.

 

Sump pump installed in Toronto homeIt’s a homeowner’s nightmare, you come home after a relaxing vacation to find out that your sump pump quit on you, leaving you with a lovely welcome home present, a wet basement.

Unless a basement is professionally constructed with external french drains and thorough waterproofing, it’s bound to leak to an extent. This problem is especially prevalent in older homes where poorly-compacted earth may gradually subside. While quality sump pumps may seem to purr on endlessly, the time does eventually come when water starts pooling on the basement floor again.

When this happens the problem may not lie with the pump itself, because it is part of a system and the cause of the stoppage may lie elsewhere. It’s absolutely vital to remember that electricity and water do not mix. Make sure the power is turned off and the pump disconnected before you start. Never touch an electrical appliance with both hands if you have the slightest doubt.

Electrical Checks

Power supply is the logical place to start. However this is also the area where the greatest caution is required. If the sump pump is hard-wired to the mains distribution board you need to ask an electrician to perform tests. They will be able to confirm the integrity of the connection, or whether there is an electrical problem with the pump itself.

If your sump pump is of the plug-in variety (not generally recommended) then you can substitute another appliance that you know is working, and easily confirm whether there’s power to the pump or not. If it turns out that there are power supply problems or the pump is electrically faulty, then this is a job that needs the attention of a professional. If not, then here are a few other things that you could attempt.

Mechanical Integrity

Fill the sump with clean water and turn on the power. Does the pump start and run smoothly? If not, there are several lines of thought to follow:

  • If the pump doesn’t start then there may be a problem with the float valve. Lift it gently using a wood or plastic rod. If this causes the pump to start then the float valve is either stuck or dirty. Remember to turn off the power before you investigate.

 

  • If the pump is noisy or runs unevenly then you may be faced with a broken impeller or worn bearings. This is a job for someone with technical experience. It may be cheaper and quicker to install a new sump pump.

 

  • If the pump runs smoothly but the water level is unaffected then water is not passing through it to the drains. Locate the one-way valve a little thicker than the pipe on the delivery side. Disconnect the valve on the pump side. Loosely cover the exposed pipe end with a damp cloth and run the pump for just a second.

 

  • If the pump delivers water smoothly then your one-way valve is faulty and should be replaced. If not, then there is a stoppage in the pump itself. This could be a blocked filter which you should be able to clear easily. If not, then you’ve spent enough time on this one. Buy a new pump for the electrician to install. The old one belongs with the garbage!

Don’t always blame your handy little sump pump when water pools on your basement floor. There could be any one of a number of other things behind the problem. We recommend you test your sump pump from time to time during the dry season, and you have the time to repair and troubleshoot. The last thing you need on a cold and rainy Toronto day is a flooded basement.

 

 

So far this Fall we’ve been pretty lucky up here weather wise in Toronto.  With a warmer than usual Fall and being fortunate enough to miss hurricane Sandy’s ugly path, Winter still seems like it’s a ways off from us.  But we all know that Canadian Winter is coming, she’s just taking her time this year.

If you haven’t done so already, be sure to spend a weekend afternoon going through your home and preparing it for the coming cold.  As a waterproofing company here in Toronto, one of the most important steps you can take as far as avoiding water leaks in your basement over the Winter is to examine and clean out your gutters before the snow and ice come.

Some of the things you should check for are making sure the Fall leaves have been removed and won’t clog your downspouts.  If water and ice start to accumulate due to a clogged downspout, you run the risk of water leaking over the top of the gutter (or through cracks and leaks that develop) and that water accumulating around the perimeter of your home.  What happens is that on warmer Winter days, that accumulated water starts to make its way through the tiny cracks in your basement’s foundation.  Also make sure that your downspout extensions are directed far enough away from your home so water doesn’t start to accumulate in the soil around your foundation.

While we are the waterproofing experts here in Toronto, there are other things you should do before the freeze sets in.  Check out this infographic courtesy of elocal.com for a quick and handy checklist of things you should do to Winterize your home.

Winter checklist Toronto home

The problem with a basement is that it’s underground, and that rainwater permeates below the ground too. It acts like an inground swimming pool, but in reverse, trying to keep water out.  Usually, this moisture filters away naturally, unless of course there’s a deluge of rainwater. Few homeowners realize that their roofs can have the same effect, and this is how it happens:

  • Roofs are designed to shed water 100% effectively (so it doesn’t leak into the attic), and to discharge it through a system of gutters and down-pipes  A roof that’s 1000 square foot (93 square meters) in size, can process 600 gallons or 2250 liters an hour from a single inch of rain.
  • This water ends up on the ground, unless it’s led away through drains. If not, it pools and saturates the ground below. As it accumulates it becomes heavier. This converts to what hydrologists call hydrostatic pressure. This enables water to manipulate the weak spots in basement walls and floors, and cause a flood.

The best way to prevent this is to install a series of “waterproofing defenses” that combine to do the job for you. This is easy to understand, when you follow the logic outlined below.

 

Lay of the Land

If a garden or paving slopes towards a house, it’s going to pool up against it, and cause water leak problems. Builders know this, although their efforts can be undone over time due to shifting and settling of the earth. Prime culprits for this are previously-disturbed earth that subsides, and the over-zealous efforts of a gardener. Fix this first, making sure there’s a clear hand-width below the level of the damp course at the very least. The fall should be one inch per foot, or 1:12 (or more).

 

Roof Water Discharge

It’s not good enough to simply lead the water through the downpipes. It must be taken further away from the house where it can cause no harm. Ideally you can lead it to the street where it discharges naturally. If not, you may need expert help to dispose of it through a system of sumps and pumps.

 

Backfill Problems

Builders dig out a bigger hole for a basement than the finished product, so they can waterproof the outside. When they’re done, they fill in the remaining space. The better ones install a drainage system at foundation level first, and then compact clean earth above it.

Others fill the space with all kinds of junk, cover this over with a layer of earth, and cart away your topsoil. This system works just like the colander you drain pasta with, except in this case, the water goes down and sits against your basement walls and not into the kitchen sink.

Try dealing with this problem by hard-surfacing the open ground above the basement, plus a meter or so around for safety. With a little ingenuity you can create a garden sit-out or a rockery afterwards. However the main objective is to stop the rain from filtering through.

 

If This Doesn’t Work

If your basement still floods after you’ve sloped the garden, led the roof water away and hard-surfaced overhead, then I’m afraid your problem lies with water arriving from further afield through ground strata.

In this case, It’s recommended that you consult a basement waterproofing specialist who can provide good references in your area. You’ll likely need a system of French drains and sump pumps, and these require an expert.

 

 

The North East of the Americas have experienced a record number of storms this season, resulting in billions on property damage and loss of personal memories that can’t be replaced.  Here in Toronto, while we experienced quite a bit of flooding, we were luckily spared from most of the damage.  We wanted to introduce everyone to a really useful guide available to residents from The Institute of Catastrophic Loss Reduction

This helpful guide, sponsored by the Canadian insurance industry and produced in collaboration with the University of Ontario, is available for free via a pdf download (see the link at the end of the article). It’s packed brim full with everything you need to know about reducing the risk of basement flooding, and recovering from it when it happens.

It’s laid out like a reference book with handy summaries in the index, content that’s easy to understand, helpful diagrams, and even a glossary of terms you might not know. It puts you in a picture to either do the work yourself, or to negotiate with a tradesperson from a position of knowledge.

Format of the Book

The Handbook for Reducing Basement Flooding is built around twenty projects, twelve of which are within the reach of most Canadian householders. The author calls these “options” because not all of them apply to every home. The book starts with a general introduction to the three main reasons why basements flood, and the principles behind avoiding this.

The twelve basic options are all intensely practical. They range from preventative measures (like fixing cracks and watching what goes down the sink), to sensible things like having a risk-assessment done, getting insurance in place and chatting with the local municipality.

The other eight options are more technical in nature, and will likely require expert intervention. Nonetheless, the knowledge gained by reading them will go a long way towards spotting cowboy contractors and avoiding scams.

There are five drawings in the Handbook for Reducing Basement Flooding that illustrate the primary causes and solutions, and how the twenty options fit into the bigger picture. It’s a good idea to print these out and have them available as you read the other content. You’ll be sure to want to pass this essential information on to others.

 

You can download the Handbook for Reducing Basement Flooding Here

Safety tips during a floodEvery year a surprising number of homes in The North East of America and Canada are flooded during storms. While this is happening, there’s often little we can do about it, because the force of water can be unstoppable. As it recedes, it’s time to take quick action, as it may still be possible to recover the situation, at least in part.

Here in Toronto, we were lucky to miss the bulk of Hurricane Sandy, which ripped through much of the East coast.  While damage was minimal, there were still thousands of homes that experienced damaging floods that turned their basements into mini swimming pools.  Next time you experience a flood in your basement, be sure to take the following precautions before proceeding.

  • Make sure the electricity is turned off – This is your number one priority, because every year there are reports of people being electrocuted in their flooded homes.  The electrical panel to the home is almost always located in the basement and if water reaches it, it can have devastating effects to anyone that is wading through the water.  Make sure power to the entire house is shut off.  Have an electrician confirm this, don’t take a risk. Water can conduct electricity through your body with deadly results!

 

  • Check for gas leaks – Turn off the supply if you smell the slightest whiff of gas. Carbon dioxide is rightly called the silent killer, because you can’t smell it. Make sure your home is well-ventilated before you turn on any gas appliance (or even light a candle or a cigarette).

 

  • Inspect your sewerage system – If there’s water bubbling up, then you can be sure there’s a stoppage somewhere. Be sensible about this. Find alternatives without adding to the problem. And don’t take a chance with drinking tap water until you get the okay from the authorities (after which you should let it run for a while first).

 

  • Only eat food you can trust – If your freezer has been out of action beyond the recommended period, don’t touch the food stored in it. After you open the freezer door for the first time, cook anything that’s safe immediately.

 

  • Get help – If you’re trapped by surrounding water, try to contact the authorities for help. As soon as you can, inform your insurance company and ask for guidance. It’s also a good idea to have your home inspected for unseen damage. Book soon for this, as the queue is bound to be long. Make sure the examination includes the foundation, structure, roof, and all reticulation systems too.

 

  • The big clean-up – Be sure to wear stout waterproof boots, strong rubber gloves and face protection, because you never know what’s washed into your home along with the water. Be especially mindful of rodents, snakes and stray animals, and stay away from bee and wasp nests.

When things return to normal as your home dries out and your insurance company completes repairs, you may be left with one nagging problem that’s sometimes extremely different to resolve. This is the mould that could be growing silently in damp spaces beneath the floors and attic, from where it can spread almost anywhere.

At best, mould is an irritation that ruins fabrics and stains art works permanently. At worst, it can trigger chest infections, and cause asthma attacks and coughing seizures. If you end up with severe mould infestation in your home there’s little chance of eliminating it yourself – especially when you have extreme water damage as in the case of a flood. Save yourself a deal of time and trouble by calling in a mould expert instead.  Mould removal companies have special structural drying equipment and detectors that can effectively remove the moisture, and mould from your home.

It’s easy to know a basement’s leaking when there’s water running down the walls, or pooling on the floor. It can be more difficult to find the source of the problem though. As a waterproofing contractor in The Bay Area, we are often called in to find the source of a basement leak after the homeowner has tried unsuccessfully to find the source.  The following advice is pitched at the level of the novice, or DIY family handyman. Anything more than that and you’re better off to call in a professional waterproofing contractor, before the inconvenience turns to permanent damage.

  1. Check the Ceiling First – If you spot any ceiling stains this must be where you look first – before you blame the walls for water running down them (or the floor because of pooling water). There is no substitute for a comprehensive inspection. If there’s a false ceiling under the concrete slab or rafters, you must remove this in its entirety so you can look properly.

 

  1. Inspect the Plumbing – Water has an amazing ability to travel almost anywhere because it’s so slippery. In fact it’s even been known to travel uphill for a short distance because of capillary action. Check every joint on your plumbing and appliances thoroughly. Be aware that metal failure does eventually follow on from vibration.

 

  1. Spot the Efflorescence – Don’t stress, this is just the white power that results from interaction between water, and bricks or concrete. Brush away the powder (it’s harmless although you might like to wear protection), then tape a piece of cooking-foil across the center of the area. Remove the foil a day later and examine it. If there’s moisture where it pressed against the wall you’ve got a basement leak. If not, the efflorescence is caused by humidity in the air.

 

  1. Look for Wall Cracks – Where these exist (and there’s water seeping through them) you’ll generally spot them easily because liquid follows gravity, and runs straight down a smooth wall. If not, abandon your cursory search and divide the area into an imaginary grid. Start by looking at the top, then work your way down progressively to the floor.

 

  1. Check for Peeling Paint – The hydrostatic pressure of water weeping through a wall is powerful enough to lift the paint off. While you’re inspecting for cracks, also check for any sign of mold, because this will only grow where a wall is damp.

 

  1. Finally, Examine the Floor – If you can’t find a leaky ceiling or damp walls, then the water laying on the floor is welling through it on account of hydrostatic pressure from below. Tell-tale clues of the location of this include lifting floor tiles or a squelchy floor covering. If there’s anything standing on the spot that’s made of metal, it will have started rusting too.

What to do About It?

Now that you’ve found the source of the water leak, your next step should be to do something about it. That’s because over time, water seeping through a building degrades the structure permanently. Before you attempt to fix a leak at the point that it appears, remember that the only way to do this properly is at the source. And if that source is on the outside of a buried basement wall, you may be just a little way out of your depth.  A qualified waterproofing contractor can conduct an inspection, and lay out several possible solutions for you to examine.

 

 

Humidity is an expression of the amount of water in the air. Humidity tends to increase during hot summer months, and is can be found indoors in any climate, especially like here on Toronto where we tend to have cold Winters and sometimes Scorching Summers with lots of rain and climate swings in between. We feel uncomfortable when the ambient humidity is high because it reduces the effectiveness of the natural cooling process we call sweating. The higher the ambient humidity level, the happier mould becomes though. And that’s a double-bind that’s best avoided at any time.

Mold in finished basement Toronto

Our basements are mini climatic systems too (although builders set out to ensure they remain as dry as deserts). That’s because the earth we build on is dynamic, and heaves and shifts naturally as its own moisture levels vary. And as it does so, it exerts massive pressure on our basement structures. The almost inescapable result is cracking, followed inevitably by water seepage.

Your Basement – A Lifelong Project

If you have a basement that’s completely watertight, then count yourself among the lucky ones. That’s because, when soil is saturated with rainwater, it’s as good as having a dam outside, thanks to force of hydrostatic pressure. Few cement-based building materials are one hundred per cent waterproof either. True foundation waterproofing uses rubber membranes on the exterior of the home. When you think about it, that’s why we build houses above the ground on foundations, and set roofs on top of them.

Finished basement with musty odour

Your Counter Measures

  1. Detect the Signs – The first thing you need to do is keep your nose tuned in to the slightest distinctive whiff of dampness, humidity or mould downstairs. When you detect something like that, it’s time to conduct a visual examination. That mould or damp spot has to be someplace, and that’s somewhere near the root cause too.

 

  1. Find the Spot – It’s important to remember that damp and humidity vary according to the season, and what’s happening on the far side of the basement. When it’s present on the walls it shows as a blush of water, a trickle or a dribble. On the floor, things are simpler because it forms a puddle somewhere or soaks the flooring above it.

 

  1. Detect the Source – If water’s dripping through the ceiling, it’s likely caused by a leaky pipe upstairs. If it appears on a wall instead, then that wall is either cracked, or the moisture is following a gap caused by an intruding pipe, or during the building process. Water on the floor is either the result of those wall or ceiling leaks, or caused by a more serious problem because you have water welling up from down below.

 

  1. Fix the Problem – While it is possible to seal a tiny crack from inside (although this is never a permanent solution) more serious basement damp problems require professional solutions that involve tackling the problem at its source – and that’s inevitably beyond the walls or below the floor.

We wish we could be more positive about the “instant solutions” offered on the internet and in hardware stores. At best, they conceal the problem while the hidden damage worsens. Using a dehumidifier can reduce the dampness in the basement, but it won’t fix the problem and will leave you with another daily chore of emptying the tank every day.

 

 

Water is a mighty powerful and persistent thing. It’s carved out canyons and has flooded huge cities. Allow it drip for long enough and it will punch a hole through granite. When it comes to your basement – if there’s a way for water to find it’s through, trust me, it will discover it and you’ll soon have a leaking basement  problem.

That’s why so many of San Francisco’s basements suffer from some form of basement water problem. Causes of this can range from leaking water wells and cracked walls, to porous and cracked floors. Left untended, basement leaks can lead to all kinds of associated problems, ranging from mold and mildew, declining property values, to a family with an entire floor of their home that is unhealthy and unusable.

 

Two Options

There are only two solutions to a leaky basement. The first is to stop the water getting in. The second is to manage it (more about this later). Any competent car mechanic will confirm that the only way to stop an oil leak is at its source. The same applies to basements (choosing a mechanic and a contractor should be taken with equal care).

Unfortunately, when basement water-proofing fails from the interior, there’s no easy way to stop it because the source is on the far side of a brick/concrete wall, or under a concrete foundation deep below the ground. This makes accumulating the water in a hollow called a sump usually the first course of action. When it’s accumulated, you can lead it away with an electric pump.

Sump Pumps

A sump pump is not unlike a water-feature pump in principle, in that it’s connected to an electricity supply, but always under water so it never develops an airlock. The sump is equally simple. It’s just a hollow you could squeeze a beach ball into, and covered over with a lid so everything looks neat and tidy.

The system is controlled by a float that’s not unlike the one in your bathroom toilet (at least in principle again). When the water reaches a set level, a switch turns on the pump for as long as necessary to control the water in the sump. By far the larger challenge is leading the leaking water to the sump in the first place. But that’s a subject for another article.

Do I Need a Sump Pump?

You need a sump pump if there’s an accumulation of water in your basement at any time of year. They’re not all that expensive. Besides, if you ignore the damp, mold could become the least of your problems. Your basement den or bedroom could become permanently uninhabitable. Imagine what that would do to your property valuation, and the value of what is probably the biggest investment you’ll ever make.

A Permanent Solution

If you have permanent bronchial problems, you could be living in a damp environment. If your basement is permanently damp, then that’s a sign of a deeper-seated problem too. Once you have successfully stabilized your situation with a sump pump, you really should call in a registered and experienced basement waterproofing expert. They will advise you on a longer term solution that retains the integrity of your home.

 

Over the past 30 years, Nusite Group Contractors has performed several hundred interior and exterior basement waterproofing jobs all over Toronto and the surrounding GTA.  Homeowners that have wet or leaky basements are often confused as to how the waterproofing process works.  While in some cases, an interior waterproofing job is sufficient, often times it will not mask the underlying water problems surrounding your foundation.  In this case, exterior waterproofing is your best bet for doing the job once and for all.

When a basement foundation needs to be waterproofed, a series of steps must be followed sequentially to do it correctly. All repairs and prep work has to be completed before the membrane is applied. The membrane must be made from a quality material. In our case, we use Bakor Waterproofing, which is a superior product and provides excellent and long lasting protection for the basement exterior foundation to prevent further leaks or seepage.

Here are the steps which we take to waterproof a basement foundation.

 #1 Excavate the Basement Foundation

Basement waterproofing membrane being applied to Toronto home

Normally, we excavate the area around the home by hand. We do this because mainly to minimize any potential damage which machinery might cause. However, if it is possible to use machinery to complete the excavation faster, we will do so.

The basement foundation will be excavated down to the footing so the basement walls are completely exposed. We will excavate down to the level of the weeping tiles, or the lowest point of the footings to ensure the footings are at the correct depth. Shoring will be used in some situations to prevent the possibility of a cave-in.

Then, we will use a combination of wire brushing and power washing (only if the wall is a concrete foundation) to clean off the dirt so we can properly evaluate any existing damage to the foundation walls. Once the state and condition of the footings and the foundation of walls has been evaluated, we will begin our repair.

 

#2 Basement Foundation Repairs

Exterior crack being filled on Toronto basement

First, we manually chisel out any visible cracks or gaps in the foundation wall. These gaps and cracks are then filled with a hydraulic concrete to fill all the voids.

Some basement walls may still be rough and uneven. To properly and effectively apply the sealant membrane, we may have to apply a parging coat to properly smooth the walls which may require up to 2 coats. The parging acts as a means to damp proof the foundation walls along with providing a more consistent medium to apply the waterproofing membrane.

 

#3 Apply the Waterproofing Membrane

A waterproofing membrane that has been applied to a Toronto basement foundation

The next step is to apply one of two types of membrane sealants which will be either Aquabloc 720-38 or CM-100 series liquid membrane. Different types of membrane material are required for different types of foundation walls. The important thing to remember is that a waterproofing membrane is the only cost effective and most efficient way to waterproof the exterior basement foundation walls, as some competitors will employ cheaper methods which in fact only damp proof the wall. This approach is far less effective than the waterproofing materials that we use.

The waterproofing material is applied to every square inch of the foundation walls. This membrane is the primary material which waterproofs the foundation walls and prevents water from entering.

The membrane then requires a mesh to hold the material and keep and cracks or gaps effectively sealed. The mesh we use to use reinforce the waterproofing membrane is Yellow Jacket mesh which adheres to the membrane.

 

#4 Apply a Drainage Board Membrane

The next step is to apply a drainage board membrane to the exterior of the waterproofing membrane. This secondary membrane acts as your first defense against water and frost and also protects the waterproofing membrane when the excavated foundation is filled back in.

The drainage board membrane is a dimple board membrane. The dimpling effect provides a space between the waterproofed walls so the dimple membrane has an air space which allows any water that enters the air space to drain effectively to the weeping tile.

After the dimple membrane is applied, it is then sully sealed along the seams. The dimple membrane is then finished with a termination strip at the top of the membrane to tightly seal the membrane and affix it to the wall. We then apply concrete anchors to effectively secure the dimple membrane along the termination strips.

 

#5 Weeping Tile Steps

weeping tiles installed on exterior foundation in Toronto home

Effective drainage is very important to keeping a basement waterproofed, so addressing the weeping tile is the next step which is equally vital to the process because water needs a place to go. There are many different types and sizes of material used for weeping tile.

Regardless of the weeping tile you currently have, it should be replaced with the best possible material. New technology now exists for a more durable and more efficient weeping tile. The weeping tile we usually use is a new form of perforated plastic tile that is covered with a sock. The purpose of the sock is to prevent sand from entering and clogging the tile which make drianage ineffective.

Once the weeping tile is replaced, we then cover it with a landscape fabric and then a clear layer of 6 – 12 inch stones. One thing to keep in mind is that if you also have a window that is within 6 inches of the top of the level grade (meaning after the excavated hole is back-filled), you will also require the installation of a vertical drain which is attached to the weeping tile to ensure effective drainage of any water which might seep in around the window.

 

#6 Backfilling the Excavated Basement Hole

Backfilled foundation on Toronto home

This is the final step to the process and should also be done correctly as it is simply not enough to push the excavated material back into the hole. A compactor must be used to properly tamp down the earth and done in such a manner to avoid any possible damage to gas lines or other underground utility connections. Proper backfilling also allows for proper grading which must be sloped away from the house. It also ensures there are no larger piles of dirt that needs to be settled.

The landscaping can also be repaired by us afterwards, but you should be aware that it can take up to 3 months before the dirt fully settles.

 

So these are the steps taken when performing an exterior basement waterproofing project.  It may seem like alot of work, and it is, but many times it’s the only way to ensure you can enjoy a healthy and dry basement.  To have such a big project performed successfully, make sure the contractor you use is fully qualified and licensed and is using the highest quality materials for the job.  As you can see from these steps, it’s not something you’d want to have to do again.  Have questions about basement waterproofing?  Contact us here, we’re happy to help!