Snow rail on roof of Toronto homeSpring is the season when the majority of leaking basement issues occur. This is due in part to one obvious reason; Spring brings a lot of rain.  Rain gutters are the obvious solution to this problem, but what about the “not so obvious” problem that causes leaking basements? Snow for the past 3-5 months can actually cause more leaking basement issues than an early spring rain storm.

Throughout the winter, snow and ice will build up on your roof. If you have a roof with a slippery slope, such as a metal roof or tile shakes, the built up snow and ice will eventually slide off your roof. A lot of people believe this is a good thing because they do not want heavy snow and ice sitting on top of their home or business because they are afraid it will collapse their home or office building. The truth is building codes are written in such a manner that buildings properly constructed are able to handle the heavy load of snow and ice accumulated through the winter.

Roofing-infographic-toronto

Allowing snow and ice to slide off your roof creates a mound of snow that builds up right at the base of your home. This is a problem. Sliding snow and ice also damages your roof, and rain gutters if you have them installed. This sliding snow and ice is so powerful that not only can it rip the rain gutters off the side of your home; if it hits someone it can actually kill them. Many a car has had the roof or hood caved in due to snow sliding off of sloped roofs.

Let’s get back to that mound of snow problem. The mound of snow that forms from the sliding snow creates two problems related to leaking basements. The first is the amount of stored water in the form of snow sitting right at the base of your home melts, saturating the ground. When rain comes along there is no more dry ground to soak up the fresh supply of water. Second, the snow creates a nice ramp for water running off of your roof. The problem with this ramp is that the downhill side of it is next to your home. Essentially this creates a funnel or channel leading right to your basement walls for the rain water that is falling. When a rainstorm comes, your roof now acts as a large collection basin sloping toward the “snow funnel” on the ground. Basically, nature has created a plumbing system for rain water to end up in your basement. This is not good.

So what can I do to avoid this problem?

There are products on the market to combat sliding snow and ice. These products are called snow retention systems. Snow retention systems consist of either a number of snow guards spaced out on your roof that act as several dams stopping the snow on your roof, or a snow rail system which is a long pipe or number of pipes attached to supports which also stops snow on your roof. Sno Gem and Sno Shield are popular snow retention manufacturers if you are interested in researching further into snow retention.

My neighbor installed the Sno Shield Panel Guard two years ago on one section of his roof over a window well where he was constantly having leaking basement problems. Last year we did not get any snow to speak of and he felt that he may have wasted money, but this year was a different story. We received several foot or more snow storms this year. Now we are at the end of March, and he was just telling me the other day after a large rainstorm that he can see no signs of leaking in his basement. The snow guards kept the snow on the roof allowing it to slowly melt and drip off. He said that it has been nice to be able to look out the basement windows this year and not see a sheet of plywood over the window well in an attempt to divert the runoff.

The best way to utilize a snow retention system to keep water out of your basement is combined with a rain gutter system. The snow is held on the roof where it can slowly melt. The run off is then properly guided away from your home via the rain gutter system or evaporates. The rain gutter system and anything else below the eave of your roof is protected by the snow retention lowering your potential liability and financial headaches.

About the Author

Written by Kade Smith. Kade is the owner of Roof Things located in Rexburg, ID. Roof Things is a roofing supply company found online at http://www.roofthings.com.

Foundation slab in Toronto basementDo you have cracks appearing in your foundation walls?  There can be many reasons for cracks to appear, some may be harmless, while others may be signs of serious problems.  The Bay Area is known for earthquakes, and the constant shifting of the ground can cause a foundation to crack over time.

A foundation is the substructure on which a building rests. In The Bay Area,  this is usually reinforced concrete although some elevated homes may be exceptions. The concrete sub-base can take two different forms. It could be a series of strips mirroring the walls above, or a solid sheet.

The correct application depends on the soil type. If it is stable, the strip method may suffice. However if the soil is clayey and likely to heave during wet periods, then the correct solution is a concrete “raft” that insulates the structure overhead from the movement that occurs below.

The Common Problem

Many builders design foundations on the basis that they will be stable once laid. Over time, outside forces make shift and put stress on the concrete structure:

  • The earth beneath the foundations settles because it was not properly compacted in the first place and ground water flows in through the gap
  • Earth movement occurs as a result of seismic events, mining activity or construction work on an adjacent site
  • The ground expands and contracts during alternating wet and dry seasons, especially if it has a clay component

When foundations move and crack below, this movement transfers to the structure above where masonry courses separate. It is most likely to be evident in the vicinity of weaker points like corners and above window and door frames.

Foundation crack Toronto home

Warning Signs

Unless caused by seismic activity, masonry cracking is usually a gradual process that occurs almost imperceptibly. Early indications can include:

  • Doors and windows that jam up in wet periods but begin to rattle in the wind when the weather’s dry
  • Cracks stepping up the masonry courses or appearing horizontally through bricks
  • In extreme cases, distorted walls and tilting chimneys

It goes almost without saying that these problems must be dealt with before serious structural damage occurs.

Remedial Action

While the ostensible cause of foundation cracking is ground movement or soil erosion, the true reason is that the foundation may be inadequate for local circumstances, or was earth around it was not settled properly before creating the foundation. Short of tearing down the structure the only practical solution is to strengthen the foundation. Foundation engineers achieve this with a variety of solutions that include steel or helical peers, plate and tie anchors, hydraulic lift slab piers and concrete underpinning.

In Summary

Cracks appear in foundations for two related reasons. Either the substructure is inadequate, or an event occurred outside the design specification. While the settlement may be slight and the visible evidence purely cosmetic, it may be the beginning of a far more serious problem if left untreated.

Some foundation cracks may not be an indicator of serious foundation problems, while others may signal the start of serious foundation problems.

Spotting subsidence problemsMany people worry about the long term costs and safety of buying a house with subsidence. Subsidence refers to unstable building foundations which cause parts of the structure to slowly sink downwards. As with all building issues, levels of subsidence vary greatly, with home owners having to endure great costs and distress in more severe cases. If you are a landlord, subsidence is never a welcome sign for functional property management, so if you suspect your property has subsidence or the problem is getting worse, spotting the signs early may help you avoid larger worries down the road.

Causes

The most common causes of subsidence are due to geological, natural causes. Clay soils are a common culprit for the problem as they lock in moisture for long periods of time which then causes it to expand. Once dried, it then shrinks, making the foundations of a building unstable. These soils are usually found along river banks so the location of your property can be a crucial factor in subsidence risk. Look for signs of subsidence after a long wet or dry spell. Tree roots can also dry out this clay and create a problem to a structure as the roots grow out of control. This accounts for more than half of all subsidence cases so it is important to maintain or chop down a large tree close to your property. Uneven soils also add to the issue, especially in areas which witness earthquakes and tremors on minor and major fault lines.

Spotting subsidence problems

 

Spotting subsidence

The key thing you should look for when spotting signs of subsidence are cracks. It can sometimes be hard to differentiate a subsidence crack to one which has been the simple result of time and seasonal changes such as frost. Look for interior and exterior cracks which taper diagonally downwards across wall surfaces. Another sign is to look for changes in wallpaper. Once you have ruled out damp as the cause, subsidence should be the next worry. Many cracks are hidden by wallpaper, so as the levels of your walls shift; ripples and hanging corners may appear in the paper. If these signs are spotted, also test your doors and windows in their frames to check for alterations. Unfortunately, monitoring your house for subsidence can be a lengthy process which is frustrating as the sooner the problem gets sorted, the less money and time you will have to spend on treating the problem.

How to repair subsidence problems

How to treat subsidence

Actually treating the problem of subsidence can be the most lengthy and distressful stage of the whole process if the issue goes unnoticed for some time.

The process of underpinning the entire structure may have to be implemented in the most severe cases which can cost homeowners thousands of pounds. The majority of properties with subsidence will not need to be fixed with such extreme lengths but it is always best to get your home thoroughly assessed. Although underpinning is a costly fix, the likelihood of subsidence is usually minimal, which will help towards insuring your property. Insuring a property with subsidence can be arduous although there are now many comparison websites which research the best deals for you.

Roots causing subsidence problem

In terms of tree roots, you will need the advice of an expert as to whether removing the roots from under the property will be a quick solution or a detriment to the project. Over the years, major root networks will have shifted the soil to create space. Once the roots are taken away, this space may soon fill up with water, which will add to your structural problems.

Another cause of unwanted water under your home is a burst or leaking pipe. Once this problem is determined, mending this can be a quick fix.

 

 

 

Thinking about renovating your basement?  Does your home sit on a sloped lot?  Maybe you should consider creating a walkout basement for your home.

Most basements are not put to use.  Either they weren’t created for living use (low ceiling height, unfinished floors, etc), and other times the conditions down there don’t lend themselves to human habitation (leaky walls, mold, lots of spiders, etc)

Basements, as the name suggests, are areas beneath the main structure that you can walk in and out of without using stairs. Ideally, they have windows and allow access on level ground. In this case, some people also call them daylight basements. If you are fortunate enough to have one (and there is sufficient head height) you can legally use it as living space and benefit from these other advantages:

  • Added value to your home at far less than the cost of a room upstairs
  • A more attractive proposition should you decide to sell some day

A walkout basement is usually only achievable when the property has sufficient slope to allow for it. Unless constructed at the same time as the house, part of it may end up below ground with concomitant damp problems. Ideally there should be sufficient slope on the rear side of the home to accommodate it. This obviates the risk of the approach-side of the house appearing architecturally awkward.

While it’s ideal to create a walkout basement when originally constructing the home, often times it didn’t fit the budget, or just wasn’t in the plans with the original construction.  When creating a walkout basement on an existing home, you’ll want to make sure:

  •  Waterproofing protection is incorporated during the construction process
  •   Foundation support are maintained to accoodate the new design
  •   The new design is in harmony with your existing home

While creating a walkout basement can be expensive, the value from the added living space will add value to your home that wasn’t there before.  In Toronto, there is a lack of available property, so homeowners are looking to make the most of the property they already have.  A walkout basement is a perfect fit to add an entire floor of living space to your home.

While this sort of renovation can be costly, it is often possible to stagger these costs on a site that slopes away from the access point. In this case, it may be feasible to leave the raw walkout basement structure unfinished, and complete fitting it out when funds become available. In this event it is vital to ensure two things.

  • There must be legal head height after allowing for ceiling space.  This is accomplished by lowering your basement.
  • The walkout basement must have waterproofing for its design life.

This is because it is often impossible to retrofit access to the inner wall, and to repair leakage afterwards. Builders seldom understand these things, which is why you should consult an expert.

walkout basement under construction in TorontoIf you have a wet basement you’re not alone. Over sixty percent of homeowners in North America share your dilemma. And given Toronto’s age and climate, that number is probably higher.  Attempting to dry out a basement without fixing what’s causing it is like filling a bath with a badly-fitting drain plug. Problems come before solutions. Tackle root causes first.

No. 1 – First Principles

The water’s coming from someplace, but where exactly? The first clue is where damp is found. If the ceiling’s stained there’s a leaking pipe upstairs. If it’s on the upper walls say down to four foot from the top it’s surface water filtering down in rainy periods. If it’s lower down you may have a ground water problem.

Water working its way through walls and floors usually arrives through cracks and fissures. These may be through the material itself, around pipes penetrating it, or at the junction where walls and floor meet. It’s worth trying first aid by raking out loose dirt, maybe opening up a bit and caulking with an epoxy filler designed for underwater use.

No. 2 – Surface Water

Surface water comes from rainfall, and there’s no way to stop the rain from falling. King Canute couldn’t stop the tides and you aren’t able to do so either. The secret is to keep it away from the area above your basement outer wall, and this is how you go about it:

  •  After making sure your garden is below the level of the house damp-course, slope it away to a gradient of ½” per foot and pave an area at least three feet wide Make sure there’s someplace to accept the runoff or you may just have moved the problem.
  •   Next time it rains heavily go outside and see what happens to the roof water. You can’t look up through an umbrella so you need wet weather gear. Are the gutters coping with the rain? It the water gushing through the downpipes. Hopefully it’s not discharging directly on your paving!  Install prefabricated open surface drains as needed.

No. 3 – Openings to the Outside

In some areas, the law requires Canadian basements to have emergency escape routes independent of the house. These can be doors or reasonable-sized windows. Open them and inspect them carefully. Are the seals in good condition? Is there a point that shows up clean compared to the rest? If in the slightest doubt replace the seals and run a bead of silicone around the frames on the outside and the inside too.

No. 4 – Window Wells

It’s easy to overlook the possibility of an ineffective window well storm-water drain. This may have been inadequately installed, but it’s more likely to be a blockage. Clear it out. Remove the grill and flush it with a hosepipe until it discharges clear water freely. Make a habit of this every time you’re doing gardening.

Hopefully these measures will suffice and you can open up the doors and windows on a sunny day and allow your basement to dry out. If not, you have a more serious problem and you need a waterproofing specialist to advise you. This is no task for a jobbing handyman. You’ve already performed that task yourself. Ask a local specialist to take a look for you.

Ice damming on Toronto roofIs your roof leaking?  One of the places where mold loves to grow is in the attic, where a leaky roof is often the culprit.  Even if your roof isn’t causing problems now, if it’s several years old you should consider adding it to your annual inspection checklist.

The roof of your home needs timely maintenance, repair and replacement for comfortable living.  With the changing seasons, and sometime extreme weather, the roof on a Toronto home is subject to some severe conditions.  It’s important to periodically inspect the condition of your roof and take remedial measures  in time to avoid costly repairs, which usually result in neglecting to “nip the problem in the bud”. Unnoticed, small leaks from the roof can make their way into the attic and down the walls of your home. Mold growth, damaged floors, furniture and carpets are usually the result. Periodic checks should be carried out so you can spot signs of trouble before they get out of hand.

Check out this neat infographic courtesy of The Phoenix Roofing Team to help you determine if your roof needs replacing.

roofing-infographic

1.     Check the external appearance of the roof at the top joints for any cracked or torn portion or any missing plates or pieces.

2.     Have a close look at the roof for any loose sheet or gap around chimney, vents, pipes or other protrusions from the roof.

3.     Look for the presence of granules from the roof at the bottom of drain pipes. They look like large grains of sand.

4.     Inspect the drainage and confirm that gutters and drain pipes are firmly secured and passages are not blocked.

5.     Make sure that vent pipes from kitchen, bath and drier are completely outside of the home.

6.     Make sure that the roof is not sagging anywhere.

7.     Check for any signs of leakage of water.

8.     Check for any dark spots and trails.

9.     Check for any hole through roof (outside light visible from under the roof).

 

basement leak in Etobicoke homeWhen does a small leak or mild dampness need to be addressed?  When should I go ahead and hire a professional contractor to waterproof my basement?

The title begs a further question, and that is what you intend to use your basement for. If it’s little more than crawlspace then by law it’s unfit for human habitation, and you may just want to maintain a modicum of decency. However perhaps you have in mind to convert it into useful room? This generates a different scenario.

That being the case, you need to face up to the reality of basements. They are beneath the surface and regularly admit groundwater unless properly designed and managed. When this happens at the very least damp penetrates, followed by ugly mildew and often potentially unhealthy basement mold.

As an add-on you may also find the structure of your basement beginning to decay. This is because bricks, mortar and concrete are not designed to be permanently damp. Adequate waterproofing is usually the only option for the responsible Toronto homeowner, especially if they hope to use their basement as an extension of their home.

Causes of Leaks

Moisture is always present underground – and especially during rainy periods. It penetrates through basement walls and floors whenever any of the following conditions exist:

  •   Inadequate waterproofing of exterior walls during construction
  •   Cracks caused by expansion and contraction as the seasons come and go
  •   Joints opening between walls and floors due to foundation settlement
  •   Openings created to allow access for water pipes and cables
  •  The general failure of the building medium due to initial poor quality

french drain system around outside of house

Signs of Damp

Depending on the extent of your damp problem, this can manifest in a variety of ways. Gradual permeation is associated with higher levels of humidity especially during rainy periods. Specific leaks are indicated by the presence of water. This can trickle down the walls and collect below, work its way up through the floor or dribble out from the joint between the wall and floor. It’s never a good idea to ignore these symptoms because of the long-term consequences.

What to Do About It

The internet is full of so-called miracle cures. Some may work temporarily provided the problem in minimal. However just like King Canute they all inevitably fail. The reason for this is simple. Basement leaks are only fixed at the source, and in this case the origin is on the far side of the wall where the moisture’s pushing in from. Think about it. On which side would you patch a leaky dam or a sinking rowing boat?

Finished basement with musty odour

To summarize  yes you do need to waterproof a basement if it’s leaking (if it’s not, it’s already properly waterproofed and you need to do nothing but monitor the situation). Otherwise the optimal solution depends on the extent of the leak and the use you put the space to. If you have a problem you could be wise to take advice from a quality home renovation contractor like Element Home Remodeling in Mountain View. Or else you could end up throwing your good money after bad.

 

 

clogged rain gutters in toronto

Keeping your basement dry during a rainy Spring can be a challenge, especially here in The Bay Area.  But here are a few things you can do.

The water entering your basement usually comes in the form of rain. And under normal circumstances, Mother Nature distributes this evenly and there are few problems in your basement. The problem is that a house creates huge catchment areas we call roofs, which discharge concentrated water through downpipes. If you do not manage what happens next, water can flow and settle around your foundation, into the earth and eventual cause leaks in your basement.

The problem often peaks in March and April as The Bay Area emerges from a cool winter to face heavy rain showers. Poorly graded gardens become soggy graveyards for lawns and plants. Water pools everywhere, finding its way downwards into your basement where it inflicts more damage. Fortunately, all these problems are avoidable.

Start With the Gutters

Your initial step is to make sure that all the rainwater enters the gutters and flows down through the downpipes. That is because having it splash down over them merely moves the problem. Clean out your eaves troughs thoroughly. If they still overflow, you probably need deeper ones for more capacity.

Lead the Water Away

Now you have the roof water under control, it is time to manage it when it hits the ground. The trick is to lead it away in a controlled fashion. If you are fortunate, the ground may slope naturally and lead to a drain to take it away. If that is the case, adjust the gradient for at least ten feet away from the house so it falls by a total of six inches without any hollows.

Lay rows of concrete leaders from the downpipes to the bottom of the slope. This should do the trick and your basement should stay dry. However if the ground remains waterlogged pave the uppermost three feet. As an added bonus, you will now have a pathway beneath the eaves where you can stay dry.

If You Can’t Get That Right

If the layout of your land does not permit a natural run-off, then your next best option is to lay an underground sewer and connect the downpipes directly to it (check with your local municipality before doing so). In this instance, take care to minimize the risk of blockages by:

  • Fitting leaf-guards on the gutters
  • Selecting an over-sized sewer pipe
  • Installing several rodding points
  • Monitoring the system regularly

If There Are No Gutters

Some houses are built without gutters. In some instances, retrofitting is impossible. In that event, the solution is to dig a v-shaped trench directly beneath the eaves, lay a gently sloping perforated pipe in it, cover this with landscape fabric and fill over with medium gravel chip.

The roof water will filter down into the pipe and flow to the lower end from where you can channel it away to an appropriate discharge point. If the landscape fabric clogs, it is a relatively straightforward matter to replace it.

Between them, the above solutions should keep rainwater away from your basement. If not then you have a more serious groundwater problem and may need to repair or install a exterior weeping tile system along the perimeter of your home. It is always best to consult a basement water-proofer first, to avoid tackling the problem from the wrong end.