The key to mold control is moisture control.

Having a leaky basement is bad enough.  A wet, damp basement is not a fun thing to have and leaves you with only entering the basement when you have to.  Not fun.  A more serious bi-product of a chronic water leak in your basement is the growth of mold.  Here in Toronto, between the weather and the age of many homes, we get called to many homes for serious mold problems.  The problem always has a water leak or chronic dampness as the origin.

For a healthy individual, mold isn’t very dangerous, it’s just gross.  The real health problems with mold occur when an individual already has a compromised respiratory system (elderly, infants,sick people,etc) or there is long term exposure to mold spores.

Mold grows very fast once it takes hold, especially when there is moisture present to serve as a breeding ground.  We’ve all left seemingly perfect fruit on the counter overnight to discover a “fuzz farm” growing on our strawberries the next morning.  Yes, it spreads pretty fast once it gets going.

Check out the infographic below that describes some of the hidden dangers of mold growth and airborn mold spores in the home.  If you have questions about mold removal in your home or would like a free in-home estimate, you can contact us here.

Mold dangers in the home-Toronto Mold Removal

Water leaking in your basement is at best an annoyance and a cause of worry, and at worst a threat to your home and to the health of you and your family due to the negative effects of persistent water leaks.  If a water leak is left untreated, water damage to you foundation can occur as well as the development of mold in the home.

It’s important to understand that there are many possible causes for water getting into your basement. Unfortunately, here in Toronto, we have ideal conditions for basement water leaks – lots of wet weather, high water tables and aging foundations.

Here are some of the key causes of water entering your basement:

1. Structural cracks

Concrete foundations are not resistant to cracks.  Cracks in the foundation can be caused by soil settling around the foundation or by movement in the house’s walls.  Once a crack in the foundation has formed it can be quite difficult and expensive to fix.  Prolonged water leaks can expand the cracks and deteriorate the foundation over time.

Horizontal crack in Toronto foundation home

Horizontal Crack

2. Where your four walls meet

The outer perimeter of your house is composed of a thick slab of concrete called a footing.  This footing is poured into a wooden form and a little indentation or channel is thus formed.  This is called a keyway.  The foundation walls are then formed perpendicular to the footings, filling this channel, the keyway.  This forms a little mechanism for holding the foundation walls and footings together snugly, with little or no lateral movement.  The problem comes from the fact that you have two distinct structures, and they are not perfectly bound to one another.  This allows seepage of water from the soil.

Similarly, you have the place where your basement’s floor meets the foundation floor.  The small gap here is called the “cove joint”, it is also a vulnerable location for water seepage.

3. Stairways

You may have an old-fashioned hatchway structure, or a standard stairway going into your basement.  In either case, you may experience cracks.  In general, the connection of a stairway to the structure of your home and basement often creates vulnerable spots for water accumulation.  Add it any significant grading or slope and the problem can be made far worse.

window wells are a source of basement water leaks

4. Windows

Like stairways, windows built into your basement walls can be common culprits of water leakage into your home. Window wells that do not have proper drainage can cause pooling around your foundation and cause water to leak into your basement from cracks around your basement window. The issue here is where the water is being directed,  water should always be routed away from any windows and the foundation wall.

5. Defects with gutters and downspouts

Your gutter system can often cause water problems for your basement.  Making sure your downspout is in working order and it has an extension carrying water away for your home is critically important when attempting to keep your basement dry.

clogged rain gutters in toronto

6. Defective Sump Pit/Drain Tile

The sump pit, beneath your basement, is generally fitted with a pump that is meant to transport water to the ground surface outside the foundation wall.  Many things can cause this system to fail, such as poor installation, a poor drain pipe, or a broken connection between the drain pipe and the sump pump.

Sump pump installed in Toronto home

7. Water rising over a low foundation wall

Your home might be situated in a way that causes water to be able to make it over the foundation wall.  Shorter walls, particularly at a place where runoff from some elevation is present, are a big culprit here.
Water leaking into your basement can be an annoying and persistent problem.  It is important to properly identify the source of you water trouble and consult a qualified expert immediately.  A littler water may not seem like a big deal initially, however left untreated a little problem can easily turn into a large problem.

If you live in Toronto or the surrounding GTA and have water or foundation issues with your home, feel free to contact us here for a free in-home estimate and inspection.

 

Sump Pump Program Toronto

We install a lot of sumps pumps here in Toronto.  They are usually the last line of defense to stop a flooded basement and choosing the right one for your basement is an important decision.

If you’re having repeated bouts of water leaking into your basement, a sump pump is probably the first step to a remedy.  Conversely, water through foundation cracks or basement window that don’t close properly are signs of a problem with your foundation, needing a complete cure.  And if your water troubles are minor and infrequent, you may not need a pump.

A sump pump is a sort of body guard for your basement.  It is there to head the water off, trap it, and get rid of it.  It’s almost like living on a mound with the sloping land all around directing the rain away.  A sump pump sits in a little hole dug for it in the basement’s floor—the sump pit.  If water enters the pit, the rising water level trips a switch that turns the pump on, which escorts the water out through a drain pipe.

Varieties of Pumps

Submersible – This one is the Cadillac.  These are installed under your basement (in the pit) as described above.  They are made from zinc, bronze, stainless steel or cast iron, and the best models can pump up to 7,000 GPH, gallons per hour.  You’ll likely get a good 25 years or more from your submersible.  Go with this design unless you absolutely can’t afford it.

Pedestal ­- This is your average used sedan.  These actually sit above the pump and may serve you only about 10-15 years.  They’re generally not as powerful, and it’s the cost that causes most people to choose them.  Some buyers are attracted to the idea that the motor, up above the water itself, should not face the threat of damage.

Criteria

Once you’ve chosen the type of pump to go with, let’s look at the factors to consider when shopping.  The biggest ones are: horsepower, switch quality, pumping capacity, quality of construction

1. Horsepower

Hooking an actual horse up to the pump will get the animal cruelty people out to your place so fast you won’t believe it.  So you’ll have to settle for a bit less.  Pumps are usually sold in small increments of 1/2 hp, 1/3 or 1/4, which gives you plenty of flexibility.

Basically, the 1/4 hp variety is for a household that isn’t having water problems at all, but just wants a no-nonsense approach to stopping any possible threat.  If you live in a low-rainfall area, this is for you.

1/3 hp is a good option for folks whose foundation is at or above the water table, and who live in areas with average rainfall.  The majority of you will probably go with this option.

The 1/2 hp is for a house in a low-lying area or one that is susceptible to high quantities of water for any reason.

 

2. Switch Quality

You probably wouldn’t buy a car without researching the engine or a golf club whose head design you don’t like.  As we mentioned above, the switch is activated by the water level, and it makes the pump act.  Therefore, dazzle your local store employee by going in with some knowledge of the different kind of pumps.

Electronic – These switches are powered by electronic sensors.  Electronic vs. mechanical means less worry about physical parts that can wear out.  Word has it that sometimes these switches can outlast the pump itself, sometimes working for more than a million cycles.

Float –These are fairly common.  The floating mechanism sometimes moves up and down on a rod.  As outlined above, it’s the floating mechanism that detects rising water and turns on the pump mechanism.  As you can guess, this set-up can require occasional maintenance—switch failure is probably the most common problem with sump pumps.  While a good float switch is just fine, you may try to go electronic when possible.

Diaphragm – These use water pressure to alert the pump to water.  Some varieties of these are adjustable, while some are not.  That’s something to give serious consideration.

 

3. Pumping Capacity

How much water the pump can handle is pretty important, particularly if you live in an area with flood threats.  There’s probably no reason to monkey around with a product that lists a max capacity of less than 3,000 GPH.  You should also see a listing of “flow at 10’ lift” and you’ll want one with as high a ratio of this to maximum capacity as possible.  This is affected by the length of the discard pipe.

 

4. Quality of Construction

Your sump pump is made up the housing, which is the outer shell of the machine; the impeller, a small motor at the bottom of the rod that runs the machine’s center and activates the pump, and the cover.

Naturally, you’ll want the housing to be as strong and durable as possible.  Cast iron or bronze are the best materials.  Thermoplastic materials are good for housing since they are non-corrosive.  But be sure not to buy a pump with internal materials made of thermoplast.  These are not good alternatives to stainless steel and other heavy-duty material.

Choose a quality sump pump and contractor 

To conclude, many sump pumps come with warranties and quality of pumps can vary.   You can purchase a sump pump from your local hardware store, though you may need some expertise when it comes to choosing and installing the one that is right for your situation.  Sump pumps don’t last forever and require some maintenance to get the most out of it.  It’s usually your last line of defense when it comes to having a dry basement or a flooded basement, so it’s important to choose and install the right one.

If you live in Toronto or the surrounding GTA, feel free to contact us here with any sump pump or basement waterproofing questions you may have.

Getting ready to finish your basement?  Better check for foundation cracks before putting up that drywall!

Any home repair project involves looking into the future—you can picture the finished product, say a carpeted basement with a TV set or maybe a bedroom for your teenage son.  Looking far ahead is great, but it’s important to switch focus, looking into the distant future but also into the immediate future.  The latter is where you’ll find some things you have to do to prepare.

If you plan to finish your basement, putting in a finishing wall and some sort of flooring, you have to make sure the foundation is in good condition first.  An approach similar to turning up the radio when your car is making a noise simply will not work—don’t carpet over floor cracks that could potentially leak water or put up walls over foundation wall cracks thinking that out of sight is out of mind.  You’ll be setting yourself far back by hiding increasing damage.

We repair hundreds of basement a year here in Toronto and some of the hardest, more so for the homeowner watching their drywall get stripped away, are basements that have already been finished.

First, The Symptoms

If you have spotted cracks in your foundation—or perhaps the water that has seeped in as a result—the first thing is to shore up the damage.  You may use caulking or other home-repair methods to take care of the crack itself.  Keep in mind, though, that sealing from the inside won’t be enough—in a minute we’ll discuss structural damage of which cracks are a symptom.  You will need to dig to access the outside of your basement wall or floor and seal from the outside—this is where an experienced waterproofing company comes in..

 

The Disease

It’s extremely important to realize that a crack in your basement is not some isolated event or happenstance.  It is a symptom of a larger disease.  There’s no way you can have a crack in your foundation without it being a sign of a larger problem.

 

Settled Foundation

Cracks are often caused by your foundation settling—or sinking—into the soil.  This is also referred to as floating, which means your foundation is actually moving around slightly with the soil, which is what causes cracking.  This might require piering of your foundation—definitely a job for a contractor—or might be remedied by adding rebar or fiber to the concrete to improve its strength.  The point is that merely filling a crack and then spending the money to finish your basement instead of fixing the settling does not make sense.  You have to fix the disease, not the symptom.

 

Drainage Problems

Horizontal cracks are likely caused by water drained from your roof.  The water from your downspouts may be directed too close to the ground surrounding your basement.  This pushes too much water into the ground, which then freezes.  In addition to fixing the actual cracks, then, consult an expert and make sure you have your gutters and downspouts working and aligned properly to not cause further cracking.

 

Bowed Foundation Walls

If the walls of your basement have been subjected to so much pressure that they are actually slightly caving in, or bowed, you have a larger problem.  This situation calls for a contractor to either do some piering referred to above or to use carbon fiber strips to properly support the wall.

 

Give your basement a good inspection before you start

The best thing you can do is thoroughly inspect your basement before a renovation.  If you have issues such as doors not closing properly, water seepage, or sloping floors, you almost certainly have a problem that must be fixed.  It will of course be extremely hard to fix an issue once you’ve finished the basement, so do yourself a huge favor and fix it first.

Have questions about cracks in your foundation?  Before you start your basement renovations, feel free to contact us for a free in-home inspection of your foundation.